How to Make Crispy Perfect Latkes

By Tori Avey, author of  The Shiksa in the Kitchen. 

Tori Avey has long been fascinated by the stories behind food and her blog is full of family food stories amid original recipes, cooking tips and historical tidbits. Though she converted to Judaism sever years ago, Tori grew up singing Christmas carols and hanging stockings by the chimney with care. Her first attempt at cooking latkes was a minor disaster. Luckily, she’s learned a thing or ten since then. And she’s here to share her most helpful latke making tips, so you can avoid the potato pancake pitfalls that she’s experienced along the way!

Hanukkah is almost here, and you know what that means… latke season!

I’ve tried many latke recipes over the years, some from family friends, others from cookbooks. I took elements from each of my favorite recipes to come up with this classic potato latke recipe. These latkes are crispy and salty on the outside, soft and melty on the inside. It wouldn’t be Hanukkah in our house without a plate of these delicious fried treats on the dinner table. 

Tori Avey's Classic Potato Latkes
from The Shiksa in the Kitchen

Makes: 22-24 Latkes

Prep Time: 30 minutes
Cook Time: 30 minutes

Ingredients 

• 2 1/2 lbs. Yukon Gold potatoes
• 1 large white or brown onion, shredded
• 3/4 cup matzo meal or bread crumbs
• 2 eggs, beaten
• 1 tbsp potato starch
• 1 1/4 tsp salt, or more to taste
• 1/2 tsp pepper
• Oil for frying (about 1 1/2 cups)
• 1/4 cup schmaltz (optional)

Gear 

• Mixing Bowl
• Box Grater or Food Processor
• Measuring Cups
• Colander
• Cheese cloth or tea towel
• Cast Iron Skillet
• Splatter screen
• Slotted spatula

Directions 

• Peel and shred potatoes using a box grater or food processor shredding attachment with large holes (large shreds). Some Jewish cooks swear by the hand grater, saying it makes a big difference in taste. Others revel in the convenience of the food processor. Neither method is “correct,” it’s simply a matter of preference. I really recommend using the food processor, it saves a ton of time and will help you avoid onion tears when grating the onion.

• Place grated potato into a bowl and immediately cover with cold water to keep them from discoloring.  If you’re using a hand grater, you can shred them directly into the bowl of water.

• Meanwhile, grate the onion using the grater or food processor attachment with fine holes (small shreds).
• Drain the potato shreds in a colander. If you drain the shreds slowly with the bowl tilted, you will see a cloudy white layer that has settled at the bottom of the soaking bowl. This is potato starch. Scrape this starch up and add it to the shreds after you’ve drained them, it will help to bind the latkes together.

• Rinse and dry the bowl so you can use it again to make the latke mixture
• Place drained potato shreds and grated onion in the center of a clean tea towel or multiple layers of cheesecloth.
• Wrap the shreds up in the cloth, twisting the cloth to secure the bundle, and squeeze firmly to remove excess liquid from the shreds.

• Pour potato and onion into the clean dry bowl. Stir the shreds with a fork to make sure the grated onion is evenly mixed throughout the potato shreds.
• Before you begin frying the latkes, place your wire cooling rack close to the area where you will be frying the latkes. Place a layer of paper towels below the cooling rack to catch excess oil. I prefer draining them on a rack rather than directly on paper towels, I find they stay more crisp that way.
• In a skillet, preferably cast iron, add oil to reach a depth of 1/8 inch. While olive oil and schmaltz (rendered chicken fat) are both traditionally used to cook latkes, they are not necessarily the best choice for modern cooks. Olive oil has a somewhat low smoke point, which means the oil can burn and discolor if it’s kept at a high frying temperature for a long period of time. Frying temps also destroy any antioxidant benefits of Olive Oil.  Schmaltz is delicious, but it’s full of cholesterol. I prefer to cook my latkes in peanut or grapeseed oil, both of which have higher smoke points. Grapeseed is a healthier oil with no cholesterol, while peanut oil is great for frying and adds flavor to the latkes (MightyNest note: Coconut oil may be the healthiest choice of all, since it’s the only oil that’s stable enough to resist heat induced damage). No matter which oil I use, I like to melt a little schmaltz in to boost the savory flavor.

• Heat slowly over medium to about 365 degrees F. The best way to monitor the temperature is to use a deep fry or candy thermometer. If you don’t have one of those, here are two simple methods to test the oil’s temperature:
  1. Drop a small piece of bread into the oil. If it takes 60 seconds to brown, the oil temperature is perfect for frying.
  2. Place a kernel of unpopped popcorn into the oil. When the kernel pops, the oil is hot enough to fry.
• While oil is heating, use the fork to stir the matzo meal,beaten eggs, potato starch, salt and pepper into the potato and onion shreds. You can add salt and pepper to taste. I add about 1 1/4 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp pepper. You can sprinkle on more salt to taste after cooking, if desired. Take care to make sure the egg and seasonings are fully mixed throughout the potato shreds.
• Scoop up 3 tbsp of the potato mixture and shape into a tightly compacted disk. I do this by first filling a 1/8 measuring cup and then filling again halfway.

• Place the disk carefully into the hot oil. Latkes can break apart at this point, they’re very delicate. If you can get them into the hot oil in one piece, chances are they will stick together – frying them is like the “glue” that holds them together. It takes a gentle touch, and it may take you some practice to get the “feel” for it.
• The oil should sizzle, but not pop when the latke hits it; if the oil jumps wildly or smokes, it is too hot. If it only bubbles weakly, the oil is not hot enough. Use the first latke to test the oil temperature, and don’t fry a whole batch until the temperature is right.
• Continue shaping the latkes in this way, using 3 tablespoons of potato mixture for each latke. Fry in batches of 4-5 latkes at a time (no more than that – don’t crowd the pan) for 2-3 minutes per side until brown and crispy. Note: If your latkes aren’t holding together, stir more potato starch into the mixture, 2 teaspoons at a time, until the batter “holds”. You can also add another egg to the mixture and more matzo meal, if needed.
• Remove the latkes from the pan using a metal spatula and place them on the wire cooling rack to drain.

I recommend serving latkes fresh within 10 minutes of frying them, if your cooking schedule permits. If you need to make them ahead, fry them 4 hours or less before serving. After allowing the latkes to drain on the wire cooling rack, place them on an ungreased, unlined cookie sheet. Leave them at room temperature until ready to reheat. Place in a 375 degree oven for about 10 minutes (7 if using a convection oven), until heated through, just prior to serving. Sprinkle with more salt, if desired, and serve latkes with applesauce and/or sour cream (or dairy free sour cream).

You can also freeze latkes for a few weeks if you need to make them far ahead. Fry them and drain the oil, then place them in single layers separated by wax or parchment paper in an airtight container. When ready to reheat, place them straight from the freezer onto ungreased cookie sheets and cook them 400 degrees F for 10-15 minutes till heated through and crisp. You can also line the cookie sheets with brown paper to help soak up some of the excess oil. Never refrigerate latkes, it makes them mushy.

Latkes can be served with applesauce or sour cream, or both. Some folks top their latkes with smoked salmon or caviar. Often non-dairy sour cream is used to avoid mixing dairy and meat at a kosher meal. Try serving latkes with Greek yogurt for a healthier alternative.

For more tips, visit Tori's blog post How to make perfect latkes. If you have any favorite recipes or tips of your own, add them below -- we'd love to know!